In search of the perfect cheese for our Malt Loaf

The best gifts, at Christmas or otherwise, come from knowing someone. And after many years working together, we are lucky to know our personal cheesemonger – Rhuaridh Buchanan at Buchanans Cheesemonger, Connaught Village, London – very well indeed. 

We know our new Malt Loaf will be the perfect gift for Buchanan and friends this year. Rich in festive fruits and gently sweetened with sugar and treacle, the loaf is wonderful with a generous slab of butter – but even better with cheese. 

Plus, after perfecting our recipe, we feel the right cheese pairing could take it to new, festive heights. Buchanan is just the person to help us find the right match. So, on a cold November afternoon, we pop by his cheese shop with arms full of carefully wrapped Malt Loaves, logs of Quicke’s Whey Butter, and curious taste buds.  

“That’s delicious,” says Buchanan, after taking a few thoughtful bites. Gathered in a corner of the shop, great wheels of cheese peer down at us, while nearby, shelves gleam with an assortment of intriguing artisanal pantry goods. It'd be a tough ask to leave this store empty-handed.  

“It’s got a nice squish to it,” Buchanan continues his evaluation of our loaf. “And although there's a sweetness, it’s not that sweet.”  

Packed with seasonal fruits like candied orange peel, sour cherries and cranberries, our Malt Loaf is designed to be a wholesome and quietly Christmassy treat. Made with beer from Toast Ale and heritage grains and flour from brewers' spent grain, it also celebrates the diversity of our grain supply chain and supports our efforts to design-out waste.  

“The idea for our Malt Loaf was inspired by my childhood lunchboxes, which always included a slice of Soreen,” says Roane Rapson, who developed our recipe.  

Soreen Malt Loaf, invented by John Rahbak Sorenson in 1938, was originally marketed as a health product, Rapson explains. “That’s because there’s no fat in it, and it contains a lot less sugar than a normal cake,” he says. “But for me, the beauty of it being fat-free is that it's perfect for adding loads of butter and cheese.”  

But what kind of cheese will show it off in all its fudgy, fruity glory? It’s a great brief for Buchanan. He steps behind his counter, where hunks of cheese are stacked in varying shades and textures – glossy, wrinkled, streaked with colour. He begins to select his contenders for our Malt Loaf’s perfect match.  

“With all that dense, dried fruit, I immediately think blue cheese, like our Pevensey Blue,” says Buchanan. “But the fruit isn’t all the way through, so I think something a bit fresher might also be nice – like our Yoredale Wensleydale that’s more yoghurty and crumbly. Then, because I think it’ll be an easy win, I’ve gone for Montgomery’s Cheddar.”  

Finally, a wild card. “A washed-rined from Ireland – the Durrus,” says Buchanan. “I think the flavour will work, but I’m worried the texture might not be right. We’ll see.”  

Now comes the fun bit. “I’m going to let you lead the way, because I’ll have a tendency to use too much butter,” says Rapson, who prepares slices of the malt loaf, ready to meet its potential suitors.  

We start with the Wensleydale. “A lot of cheeses that are popular right now are very strong,” says Buchanan. “This one is a bit more subtle, but that means there’s nowhere to hide. If it was uninteresting, it’d be dull as anything. But this is a complex cheese: with each bit you can taste something more. It’s a cheesemonger’s choice.”  

However, that subtle complexity ends up getting lost in all the flavours of the malt loaf. For something a bit punchier and fuller flavoured, Buchanan suggests trying the Durrus next.  

Once again, they’re close, but sparks aren’t flying. “I’m not keen on the texture with the loaf,” says Buchanan. “It doesn’t have that contrast, as they’re both semi-soft. We need a cheese with a bit more bite.” 

Buchanan starts slicing the cheddar. “Montgomery’s is different from other cheddars,” he says. “Compared to a Westcombe, which is more fruity and acidic, this cheddar is more savoury, yeasty and brothy.”  

It’s love at first bite. “That’s amazing,” says Buchanan.  

“Ah – the best so far,” says Rapson. “The savouriness really complements the caramelly, malty depths of the cake. There’s a crescendo here: it’s getting better and better. Do you think we can top the cheddar with the blue?” 

Buchanan is hopeful. While the Pevensey Blue does have a soft texture, it’s not super soft. “It's made in East Sussex, on a very small scale,” he says. "But I think you could swap it for most salty blue cheeses. I chose this one because it tasted nice today.”